Lord Ayyappa of Sabarimala
Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa
Sree Sabarimala Dharma Sastha Temple, located in the reserved forest of Ranni Taluk, Pathanamthitta district, is internationally renowned, drawing millions of pilgrims from India and abroad. A unique aspect of the temple is its openness to worshippers of all faiths, promoting communal harmony and national integration. Situated at 467 meters above sea level, it lies in the dense forests of the southernmost part of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. A unique aspect of this temple is that it is not open throughout the year and for worship only during the days of Mandalapooja, Makaravilakku, Vishu and also during the first day of every Malayalam month. Kindly check the opening dates on the temple website and plan your travel.
The most iconic song of the journey is here—enjoy listening before exploring the key aspects of planning this pilgrimage.
Contents
How did I get to know about this temple?
11 days
How to reach Sabarimalai?
How to book tickets and Accomodation?
18 Steps
The Official Song
Controversies
1. How did I get to know about this temple?
During my undergraduate years, my train journeys from Tata to Chennai on the Alleppey Express often had devotees travelling to Sabarimala. Dressed in black dhotis and barefoot, they moved between their seats and the bathroom, which always made me wonder what they were doing. Back then, I never interacted with them, but now I understand the entire process of their pilgrimage. Last year, when some of my colleagues visited the Sabarimala temple, my curiosity about its history grew. To know the story of Hari (Vishnu) -Hara (Shiva), I purchased the book "Lord Ayyappa of Sabarimala." You can read this book if you're planning a visit. It tells the story of how the demoness Mahishi was killed by the divine child, Lord Ayyappa, who incarnated for this very purpose. I have put some of the pictures from the book.
Many famous stars have visited the temple in the past. Refer TOI article for details.
2. 11 / 41 Days of Austere Life before the visit ?
On the first day of our austere journey, we visit a nearby Ayyappa temple to wear the mala, a sacred symbol marking our commitment to the upcoming pilgrimage. The devotees follow a strict lifestyle before visiting the temple. The main aspects of this 41-day / 11 period are celibacy, a vegetarian diet, no cutting of hair and nails, walking barefoot, and sleeping on the floor without much comfort. The devotees follow a strict dress code where they wear black colour garments. The main reason for wearing black clothes during Ayyappa Deeksha is the belief that it provides relief from Shani Dosha, as Lord Ayyappa is said to have commanded Shani not to trouble his devotees. The black colour also symbolises the detachment from material desires. Ramaraj is a preferred choice for purchasing these clothes (Dhoti, towel etc. ). Since practising the full 41-day Vratham can be challenging for professionals, I observed an 11-day practice while ensuring the following:
Kept the house tidy before preparing food in the kitchen (morning & evening).
Prepared my meals (and continuing this practice..).
Bathed both in the morning and evening.
Practiced the presence of God.
3. How to reach Sabarimala?
By rail: One can reach Kottayam or Chengannur by rail and then travel to Pampa by road. However, since we visited the Guruvayur Temple first, we got down at Thrissur and continued our journey to Pampa by road. The government staff stopped our van at Nilakkal from there we went to Pampa by local bus.
Make sure, you book an advance darshan ticket for quick entry. The Sreekovil Ghee Lamp ticket cost us ₹1,000 per person. The temple pond on the northern side, known as Rudratheertham, is where devotees purify themselves with a bath before entering the temple. While most devotees enter in wet clothes, we opted to change and kept our clothes near a shop. Since it was early morning at 3 AM, everything was closed. The Guruvayurappan idol, a statue of Lord Vishnu, is in the famous Guruvayur Temple in Kerala. Within the premises, there is also a temple dedicated to Lord Ayyappa, which you can visit.
Follow the temple rules and regulations, so that all can comfortably worship the Lord. Mobile phone and smart watch is not allowed inside the temple.
By air: Thiruvananthapuram or Kochi is the nearest airport.
By road: Various bus services operate from Coimbatore, Palani, and Thenkasi to Pampa for Sabarimala devotees.
4. How to book Darshan and accommodation?
The Virtual Q booking option is available online, so be sure to have your Aadhaar card handy, as you'll need to enter all the details. The ticket rates can be found at the provided link. We booked Pushpabhishekam for 7:30 PM and Ganesh Homam for the early morning slot between 3:00 AM and 5:00 AM.
Ganesh Homam - 300 Rs
Pushpaabhishekam - 12,500 Rs
Padi pooja, which is quite expensive there, i have got a video of that. You can watch how this is celebrated.
Finding accommodation at the top is quite challenging, but luckily, we managed to get 2 rooms (4 beds per room) upon arrival. Otherwise, I can’t imagine how devotees manage to stay overnight. I saw many sleeping just outside the temple, making do with whatever space they could find.
5. The Meaning of Pathinettam padi (18 steps)
Ayyappa devotees have to climb 18 steps to the sanctum sanctorum of the shrine. As they climb, they chant the ‘Pathinettam padi’ (song of the 18 steps). There are some rules for the climb. The devotee must begin the climb with their right foot. The 41-day / 11-day penance is a must for ascending the 18 steps.
When proceeding to the temple, devotees have to carry the ‘irumudi ’. which is a small black cloth bundle that contains Pooja items or personal possessions, on their head. I carried two coconuts in irumudi —one as usual , a little bit of rice and the other one filled with ghee, which we offered at the top. The ghee reamined from the coconut can be taken home and used for cooking. After returning, the rice is used to prepare sweet pongal, which is offered to the deity as a gesture of gratitude for the successful completion of the journey. We break the coconut near the exit point while returning from the top. For us, the irumudi was prepared at the local temple in Chennai, which we carried from here.
The 18 steps have great religious significance. Ascending these steps is believed to help devotees attain detachment from worldly desires. The first five steps, called panchendriyas, represent the five human senses of sight, sound, smell, taste, and touch. The next eight steps are the ashtaragas, which represent emotions like anger, love, greed, lust, jealousy, boastfulness, unhealthy competition, and pride. Chanting while climbing up the steps, is believed to control emotions that cause us pain. The next three steps, called trigunas, symbolize three human qualities, satya, or goodness/ purity), rajas or passion, and tamas or dullness. The last two steps stand for knowledge and ignorance.
There are other reasons for the significance of the steps. Ayyappa had mastered 18 weapons, and each step is dedicated to a weapon. It is believed that Ayyappa finally surrendered at the “pathinettam padi” or the eighteenth step. There is a belief that the steps also represent the 18 hills around Sabarimala. The temple stands on the highest of these hills. Some believe that the 18 steps stand for the 18 chapters of the Bhagwad Gita
Since I regularly run and cycle, the climb was relatively easy for me, and I reached the top in about 80 minutes. Along the way, I took short breaks for lemon soda and fruits to stay energized. We waited in the queue for some time and had darshan for only a brief moment. The idol is relatively small, so if you stand too far, it can be difficult to see clearly. However, our Pushpabhishekam booking at 7:30 PM was well-organized, and that was the only time we could stand very close to the Lord and offer our prayers properly.
The vibes at the temple are too good—you feel a deep sense of peace and devotion. At the same time, there’s a strong feeling of accomplishment after completing the climb, making the entire experience even more fulfilling. The dolly services are available in case you are planning to visit with gradparents. After darshan, we had our meal near our accommodation. The food stalls at the top are just okay, so it's best to plan accordingly. Also, make sure to carry an empty bottle, as plastic items are not allowed. You can refill it with herbal water available at the temple premises.
6. The official song - Harivarasanam
Every day before the temple closes a melodious song is sung. It has 108 words and 8 stanzas. The song is called ‘Harivarasanam’.
Stanza - 1
Harivarasanam Viswamohanam Haridadhiswara Aaradhyapadhukam
Arivimardhanam Nithyanarthanam Hariharathmajam Devamashraye
One who is seated on a supreme Simhasana, One who enchants the universe, One whose holy feet is worshipped by Surya(Haridadhiswara - is Surya), One who kills enemies(of good deeds), One who always dances the cosmic dance, Oh Hariharaputra Deva! (Son of Hari and Hara !)- I take refuge in thee.
Stanza - 2
Sharanakirtanam Shakhtamanasam Bharanalolupam Narthanalasam
Arunabhasuram Bhoothanayakam Hariharathmajam Devamashraye
One whose mind gladdens on hearing the Sharana Gosham, One who is the great ruler(of the universe), One who loves to dance, One who shines like the rising sun, One who is the Master of all beings, Oh Hariharaputra Deva! - I take refuge in thee.
Stanza - 3
Pranaya Sathyaka Praananayakam Pranathakalpakam Suprabhanjitham
Pranavamanidram Keerthanapriyam Hariharathmajam Devamashraye
One who is the darling of his dear most soul Sathyaka(son of Lord Sastha), One who grants all the wishes of the devotees, One who shines with a divine glow, One who is the very abode of “OM”(Pranavam), One who loves songs, Oh Hariharaputra Deva! - I take refuge in thee.
Stanza - 4
Thuragavahanam Sundarananam Varagadhayudham Vedavarnitham
Gurukrupakaram Keerthanapriyam Hariharathmajam Devamashraye
One who rides a horse, who has a beautiful face, One who has the divine mace as his weapon, One who is described by the Vedhas, One who bestows the grace like a teacher, One who loves songs, Oh Hariharaputra Deva! - I take refuge in thee.
Stanza - 5
Tribuvanarchitam Devathathmakam Trinayanam Prabhum Divyadeshikam
Tridashapoojitham Chinthithapradam Hariharathmajam Devamashraye
One who is worshiped by the three worlds, who is the soul of all divine beings, One who is the Three - eyed Lord, One who is worshipped by devas(Tridasha = Devas), One who grants all the desires, Oh Hariharaputra Deva! - I take refuge in thee.
Stanza - 6
Bhavabhayapaham Bhavukavaham Bhuvanamohanam Bhoothibhooshanam
Dhavalavahanam Divyavaranam Hariharathmajam Devamashraye
One who destroys fear(of Birth & Death), who grants brings prosperity to the devotees like a father, One who is enchanter of the entire universe, One who is adorned with the holy ash(Voboothi) as ornament, One who rides on a divine white elephant, Oh Hariharaputra Deva! - I take refuge in thee.
Stanza - 7
Kalamrudusmitham Sundarananam Kalabhakomalam Gathramohanam
Kalabhakesari Vajivahanam Hariharathmajam Devamashraye
One who has an enchanting smile, who has a beautiful face, One who has an enchanting , soft, pretty form, One who has Elephant, Lion and Horse as his Vahanas Oh Hariharaputra Deva! - I take refuge in thee.
Stanza - 8
Srithajanapriyam Chinthithapradam Sruthivibhushanam Sadhujeevanam
Sruthimanoharam Geethalalasam Hariharathmajam Devamashraye
One who is dear to the people (who have surrendered to him), One who fulfills all the wishes, One has Vedas as his ornaments and One who is the very life of Good people, One whose glory is wonderfully praised by the Shrutis(Vedas) and who enjoys divine music Oh Hariharaputra Deva! - I take refuge in thee.7. Controversies
The Sabarimala Temple controversy has been marked by protests, legal battles, and debates over the practice of barring women from entering the temple. The Sabarimala Temple issue revolves around a longstanding tradition that has been the subject of intense debate. The practice of restricting women of menstruating age (10 to 50 years) from entering the temple is deeply rooted in religious beliefs and customs. Devotees who uphold this tradition believe that Lord Ayyappa, revered as a celibate deity, should not be exposed to the energy associated with menstruation. This restriction is viewed as a mark of respect for the deity’s vow of celibacy and reflects a cultural and spiritual sentiment that has been preserved across generations.
If you found this article helpful and are planning your itinerary to Sabarimala, don’t forget to like, share, and comment. Pass it along to someone who might find it useful in planning their journey!
18 steps explanation was good and ending words were too good "control emotions that cause us pain". You got lord Ayyappa sight.