महाकुंभ २०२५
Part 1 - ॐ श्री कुम्भे नमोस्तुते
According to mythology, the Mahakumbh is held only at locations where four drops of nectar from the ocean churning (Samudra Manthan) are believed to have fallen on Earth. A Poorna Kumbh occurs every 12 years. The Maha Kumbh is a form of Poorna Kumbh held once in 144 years. In a rare occurrence, the Moon, Sun, Mercury and Jupiter align, making the Maha Kumbh the most auspicious Kumbh Mela and a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
The Mahakumbh takes place on the 'Triveni Sangam,' the sacred confluence of the Yamuna, Ganga, and Saraswati rivers. According to religious beliefs, bathing in this confluence with a sincere heart is said to absolve a person of their sins. In this post, I will share my experiences with the sadhus and my spiritual journey of taking a dip in the sacred river.
Contents
How to reach Prayagraj
Accomodation
Things to do at the Mela
How to reach Prayagraj
Prayagraj is conveniently located near Lucknow, Delhi, Ayodhya, and Varanasi, making it accessible by train or flight to any of these cities, followed by a road journey. Since travelling from the south, I booked the Gangakaveri Express and arrived on January 13th at around 2:22 AM. I enjoy train journeys because they allow for interaction with different people and make the travel time more enjoyable. During this trip, I finished reading "Be as You Are", which presents the teachings of Ramana Maharshi. The book is quite engaging, and filled with insightful Q&A. However, one of my friends disagreed with some of the answers provided to spiritual seekers.
It was extremely cold, and foggy. The administration had restricted vehicle access near the railway station. As a result, I had to walk about a kilometre to find an auto. The city is decorated with lights and murals depicting stories from Hindu scriptures are painted on the walls.
The fares were high due to the Kumbh and the increased demand at that time. However, using my local accent, I managed to negotiate and book an auto to Chungi, which was close to the Sangam and my accommodation. I feel that local travelling during Kumbh is best suited for those who are physically fit and prepared to walk long distances to avoid unnecessary expenses.
Accommodation
I was deeply grateful to my father-in-law, who had travelled about a month earlier and booked a homestay in Jhusi, just 2 kilometres from the Triveni Sangam. The area was relatively peaceful and perfect for teetotalers. Nearby, we found a breakfast spot serving traditional stuff like litti chokha, bread pakora, puri sabzi, jalebi etc.
I arrived at the homestay around 3:33 AM, and despite the early hour, a young girl Kriti, aged 23, and her mother warmly welcomed us. They helped us settle in and cleaned our room. They weren’t expecting us to arrive on time, assuming the train would be delayed due to the Kumbh rush. However, travelling from the southern zone allowed us to reach without any delays, much to their surprise. Their hospitality made us feel at home right away. While tents, hotels, and Dharamsala were available, they were beyond my budget. I was completely satisfied with my stay.
Seeing their family brought back memories of my family from nearly 20 years ago. There was an innocence in their togetherness that deeply touched me. Kriti, with her gentle nature, had an elder and a younger brother who were always ready to help. Her father, however, carried a quiet burden, worried about his financial situation. He seemed uncertain about the post-retirement life and how he would manage the responsibility of marrying off his daughter. I felt a sense of empathy for them.
Things to do at the Mela
After a nap, I went for my first dip on Shahi Snan. As I walked along the pathways, I passed numerous tents where Naga sadhus were immersed in their rituals, chanting "Har Har Mahadev!" with great devotion. You can engage in conversation with them, but it's important not to touch them unless they offer permission. These sadhus, regarded as Lord Shiva's disciples, cover their bodies with ash and often shed their clothes, fully comfortable in their nakedness. At the entrance of the tent house, you will notice a trishul (trident) with a damru (small drum) representing infinity and the eternal presence of Lord Shiva.
The temperature of the water was close to freezing, but I managed to endure three dips (dubki) and quickly changed afterwards to warm up. Along the way near the river, you'll also encounter various akharas, associations, and the tents of spiritual gurus. I'll be sharing more about this in my next post. There were many shops selling rudraksha, and I had the interesting opportunity to witness the process of making rudraksha malas. I watched as the seeds were rubbed and pierced to prepare the Malas, offering a fascinating glimpse into the craftsmanship involved.
After my dip, I visited the Kriya Yoga Research Centre to meditate and meet the Acharya there. Fortunately, they allowed me to join and even booked a slot for me in their 4 PM free entry class. The hour-long meditation, followed by energization exercises and a class on Advaita philosophy, was a good experience. The day ended with a delicious meal of bati chokha, followed by a sweet pan at Lal Chowk.
So I walked a lot, but was that the limit? Stay tuned for the next post, where I’ll share how I surpassed it.
Your only limit is the limit you place on yourself.
Awesome. It was nice experience with you...