6/18 ☼ Exploring Temples, Caves, Ghats, and an Imambara: A 3000-Mile Adventure
Entering to Kashi - Early Morning Darshans 🙏
Kashi Vishwanath & Annapurna Temple
At 4:30 AM, we prepared to visit the renowned Kashi Vishwanath temple. This magnificent Hindu temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva (Devo ke Dev Mahadev), holds immense significance. It stands on the sacred western bank of the Ganga River. Among the twelve Jyotirlingas, it shines as one of the holiest Shiva temples. The early darshan offers a unique opportunity to connect with divinity, as devotees can touch the sacred lingam. However, due to the crowd, we could only catch a glimpse and it took us approximately an hour to reach the sanctum from the main gate. Presently, the BJP government has constructed various entrances and implemented better organization for the convenience of the visitors. Inside the temple venue, you will witness the rituals like the Mahamrityunjaya Jap Puja by the Pandits. Treat yourself to the iconic laal peda and unique laddu available for purchase as you step out of the temple.
Next to Kashi Vishwanath temple stands Annapurna, the goddess of food, holding a golden ladle and a bowl of rice. Annapurna never leaves her devotees hungry. It is believed that rice brought from this temple is auspicious, ensuring that you will never lack food. After exploring two temples, we decided to take a break and indulge in some tea and toast at Lakshmi Chai Wale. Their toast is generously topped with cream that is simply yummy 😋. Check out the mouthwatering video below!
Maha Mrityunjay Temple
Our next stop was at the Maha Mrityunjay Temple, a sacred place where Lord Shiva appears as Lord Mahamrityunjaya to protect his followers from sickness and premature death. Adjacent to the temple lies a significant site called the 'Well of Medicinal Water', an ancient well-referred to as 'koop', believed to possess healing properties. It is said that Dhanvantari, known as The Father of Ayurveda and an Avatar of Lord Vishnu, poured his healing medicines into this ancient well. As a result, the water here is considered sacred and believed to possess powerful healing properties for various ailments. Locals claim that drinking water from this historic well can cure all ailments, making it a revered spot in the area. After enjoying a refreshing glass of water, we felt rejuvenated.
Kaal Bhairav Temple
The next temple darshan, Kaal Bhairav holds great significance as a form of Lord Shiva that dispels fear and protects devotees from negative influences like greed and anger, existing beyond the constraints of time and death. This form was created by Shiva to combat demons in a celestial battle, leading to the formation of Ashta Bhairavas and Ashta Matrikas, with 64 Bhairavas and 64 Yoginis emerging from them. This is a revered place of worship for Aghoris and Tantriks, venerates Batuk Bhairav, an avatar of Lord Shiva, witnessing devotees in line with bottles of Royal Stag, pouring alcohol directly into the deity's mouth before offering it as Prasad is a unique sight.
Baba Keenaram (Aghoreshwa) Ashram
Exploring a new destination called Keenaram Ashram for the very first time, we discovered an intriguing backstory behind its name. 'Keena' translates to 'bought', and it holds a fascinating tale. According to the astrological signs, the child was destined for a remarkable life and success, but only if born into a different family. To overcome this, the child's parents entrusted their precious bundle to a neighbour who, in turn, sold the child back to them for a symbolic amount of gold. There are miracle stories that exist about Baba Keenaram, you can read them here.
The primary pilgrimage site for Aghoris is KeenaRam's hermitage in Ravindrapuri, Varanasi, known as Baba Keenaram Sthal, Krim-Kund. A tomb or samadhi marks the burial place of Keena Ram, attracting Aghoris and devotees. Krim-Kund water has curative powers: women and kids can recover from some pathologies if they bath in it on particular days of the week.
The final two temples of the day - Maa Durga & SankatMochan
As we made our way to Sankatmochan, we saw a beautiful Maa Durga temple. We decided to step inside and offer our prayers. To our surprise, an intriguing quote was displayed near a Pan shop (Pan is very popular in Varanasi)
हम पान नहीं पहचान देते हैं !
This ancient Hindu shrine dedicated to Lord Hanuman attracts thousands of devotees daily. The temple is known for its idol of Lord Hanuman facing Lord Rama, and it is believed to be the place where Tulsidas wrote Ramcharitmanas. Tuesdays and Saturdays witness a surge in devotees, and a special sweet dish called besan ke laddu is offered to the deity. The temple also hosts the Sankat Mochan Sangeet Samaroh, a classical music and dance festival, every April. There was a samaroh at night but we missed it. Inside there are a plethora of Hanuman Chalisa copies, inviting you to choose one and immerse yourself in its sacred verses.
Concluding my morning temple visits and tasty snack adventures. Stay tuned for the upcoming post where I will share details about the evening aarti and recommended places to visit.