3/18 ☼ Exploring Temples, Caves, Ghats, and an Imambara: A 3000-Mile Adventure
City of Nawabs - Part 3/18
Rise and shine! How about we rent a tuk-tuk and discover the city? It was early at 5:30 AM when I convinced my family to join me on this adventure. As we arrived at the Radisson entrance, we met a friendly local tu-tuk wala who offered to be our tour guide as well for the next two hours. He led us to a popular tea spot where we enjoyed delicious buns, although the name escapes me now. It was a delightful experience!
At the crack of dawn, we made our way to Bara-Imambara and were the very first visitors of the day, stepping into this stunning place, constructed in the 18th century by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, this architectural marvel features a large hall without supporting pillars—a remarkable engineering feat. One shouldn't miss exploring the intriguing Bhulbhulaiya labyrinth on the top floor, designed to fascinate and confuse tourists. Adjacent to the Imambara is the impressive Asfi Mosque.
The labyrinth, located within the Imambara, features around 1000 passages and 489 identical doors, making it a challenging place to navigate alone. The Nawab, Asaf-ud-Daula, known for his generosity and compassion, commissioned the construction to provide employment. The project employed approximately 20,000 labourers and took over a decade to complete. This landmark, predominantly used by Shia Muslims, stands as a testament to Lucknow's rich heritage and the benevolence of its rulers. "Even the walls have ears", standing at the end of a hall and placing your ears against the walls allows you to hear even the sound of a matchstick burning, showcasing the remarkable acoustics and design of the structure.
The next attraction is the Rumi Darwaza (also known as the Turkish Gate), a striking example of Awadhi architecture. This is positioned between the Bara and Chota Imambara blending Mughal styles with innovative elements. Resembling the Bab-i-Humayun in Constantinople (modern-day Turkey), it stands 60 feet tall and historically served as the entrance to Old Lucknow City. Moving further, one can witness the highest clock tower in India, also known as Ghantaghar.
As we explore the city, our attention is drawn to various landmarks such as the university, medical college, park and stadium named after the Late Atal Bihari Vajpayee (former PM and poet). May be because his unwavering determination led to victory in Lucknow for five consecutive terms. Allow me to pen down a few lines from his writing.
टूटे हुए सपनों की कौन सुने सिसकी
अन्तर की चीर व्यथा पलको पर ठिठकी
हार नहीं मानूँगा,
रार नई ठानूँगा,
काल के कपाल पे लिखता मिटाता हूँ
गीत नया गाता हूँ |
We concluded our visit with a mesmerizing experience at The Residency, an enchanting historical site that preserves the ruins of a sanctuary built to protect British citizens during the Revolt of 1857. The destruction caused by bullets and cannons is still evident in the remnants of the Freedom movement that took place there.
With our amazing adventure in Lucknow, we were eager to continue our journey to Ayodhya by evening. Luckily, we had secured a reservation on the luxurious Vande Bharat train 😉.
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Next Post: I will share my visit to the Ayodhya temple, exploring Hanuman Garhi, and taking a dip in the sacred waters of the Saryu River.