10/18 ☼ Exploring Temples, Caves, Ghats, and an Imambara: A 3000-Mile Adventure
Bodhgaya - Buddham Saranam Gacchami
I was thrilled about my upcoming trip to Bodhgaya! I couldn't wait to visit the magnificent Bodhi tree (fig tree) and immerse myself in the serene Vipassana meditation centre, famously popularized by the late Dr. Goenka. Initially, I had booked a special train from Varanasi, but when I found out it was delayed by 5 hours, risking my connecting train to Puri. I rebooked another late-night train from Mughal Sarai, ensuring it would arrive around 6 AM. I have read countless blogs and articles advising caution when travelling early in Gaya, so I plan everything carefully. However, upon reaching Mughal Sarai, I discovered that my train had been rerouted and would be delayed by another 3 hours. In a split-second decision, I booked a ticket on the Sealdah Rajdhani, managing to secure the last available seat. So, I arrived in Gaya around 3:45 AM, filled with joy and excitement for the incredible experiences that awaited me in Bodhgaya!
Contents
How to Reach Bodhgaya from Gaya: A Simple Guide
Chanting & Meditation with Monks
Mahabodhi Temple complex
How to Reach Bodhgaya from Gaya
Confident in my preparations to avoid any unsafe situations, I found myself travelling in a public auto-rickshaw with several passengers. As we made the 5-kilometre journey from Gaya towards Bodhgaya, the number of passengers gradually dropped until only a few of us remained. Upon reaching my final destination, the tuk-tuk driver cheerfully said, "Aa gaya babu - 40 rupees." The fare was surprisingly low for the distance travelled (approx. 15 km) from Gaya.
I arrived at the entrance of the Bodhi Temple around 4:45 AM, only to find it closed. Beside me stood a few monks, ready for their morning prayer. They glanced at my backpack and patiently waited for the lady sweeping the area to open the gate. The sight of the monks in their red robes and the serene atmosphere of the temple campus in the early morning filled me with a unique and positive sense of tranquillity. Booking a taxi is another option, but it comes with a hefty price tag.
Chanting & Meditation
I hadn't checked the schedule and had no specific plans other than to sit and meditate near the Bodhi tree for a few hours. However, upon entering, I discovered a program organized by visitors from Indonesia (if I remember correctly). I left my belongings, including my phone, at the service centre and joined the chanting in the main hall. The chanting was in a mixture of several languages, and although they had a book to follow, I simply joined them in chanting from 5:30 to 6:00 AM.
Afterwards, everyone moved outside, encircled the majestic Bodhi tree, and settled down for a meditation. Nearby, a group of children accompanied by a Master were also meditating. I joined them, dedicating nearly an hour to deep introspection. As time passed, I noticed individuals softly chanting and immersed in meditation. The indescribable sensation that followed the chanting & meditation session left me feeling remarkably rejuvenated, despite not having had a restful night's sleep. Reflecting later, I felt grateful for the missed trains and the late-night Rajdhani booking, as it ensured I didn't miss my meditation session with a group of monks. Thanking my stars, I realized it was all part of a divine plan.
The Bodh Gaya has a rich history of attracting spiritual figures since the time of Buddha, including Buddhajnana, Padmasambhava, Vimalamitra, Nagarjuna, and Atisha, who have meditated beneath the Bodhi Tree. The tree, recognizable by its heart-shaped leaves, has had branches cut and sent to various countries. There are mentions of the original tree being cut and replanted at this location, with the history potentially manipulated due to attacks during those periods. The Bodhi tree faced its first destruction at the hands of Emperor Ashoka's wife, Tissarakkha, who disapproved of Ashoka's embrace of Buddhism. However, the tree miraculously regrew from its roots. Later, King Shashanka continued this legacy by cutting down the tree in 600 AD.
Mahabodhi Temple complex
In addition to the chanting and meditation, I explored a beautiful park within the temple premises, featuring a serene lake adorned with lotus flowers.
According to legend, following the enlightenment, the Buddha spent the next seven weeks in the vicinity, deeply reflecting on his experience. For the initial week, he remained seated beneath the Bodhi tree. In the subsequent week, he stood and continuously gazed at the Bodhi tree without interruption. The place where he stood is commemorated by the Animeshlocha Stupa, also known as the Unblinking Stupa, situated northeast of the Mahabodhi Temple complex. It is said that the Buddha walked back and forth between this stupa and the Bodhi tree, with lotus flowers blooming along the path, now known as Ratnachakarma, or the Jewel Walk,
Next to the luggage storage section, you'll find a charming bookstore where I picked up a book on Vipassana meditation. Eager to satisfy my appetite, I strolled over to a nearby restaurant that had a variety of dishes. Following my meal, I arranged for an auto-rickshaw for sightseeing.